Social Victorians/1895 Bal Poudre Warwick Castle
Bal Poudré at Warwick Castle
[edit | edit source]Overview
[edit | edit source]A bal poudré was held at Warwick Castle on Friday, 1 February 1895, with Countess Warwick dressed as Marie Antoinette. A guest at the house party as well as at the ball was "Mr Caryl Craven, to whom so many thanks are due for the able way in which he assisted his charming hostess in carrying out her scheme, Mr Craven being quite an authority on eighteenth century French art and dress."[1]
Daisy, Countess Warwick dressed as Marie Antoinette for the Duchess of Devonshire's 1897 fancy-dress ball as well.
Miss Beatrice Fitzherbert "wore a beautiful pearl necklace, with large diamond pendant, and two diamond sprays, all of which were given by George IV. to Mrs Fitzberbert."[2] (6, 4b)
Lady Peel wore a costume that, the Leamington Spa Courier says, "was designed by Madame Eloffe, dressmaker to Marie Antoinette."[2] (6, 6a)
Logistics
[edit | edit source]- Friday, 1 February 1895
- Warwick Castle
- Hosts, Countess and the Earl of Warwick
Related Events
[edit | edit source]- 2 July 1897, the Duchess of Devonshire's fancy-dress ball
House Party
[edit | edit source]The Coventry Evening Telegraph[3] reported the guests at the house party before the ball:
- The Austro-Hungarian Ambassador
- The Portuguese Minister [Luìs de Soveral]
- Prince Francis of Teck
- Prince and Princess Henry of Pless and Miss Cornwallis West
- The Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Angela St. Clair Erskine
- The Duke of Manchester
- The Earl and Countess of Rosslyn
- The Earl of Lonsdale
- The Earl of Burford
- The Earl of Chesterfield
- Countess Cairns
- Lord Clifden
- Lord Kenyon
- Lady Gerard
- Lord Grey de Wilton
- Lord Royston
- Lord Lovat
- Lady Norreys
- Lady Eva Greville
- Lord Richard Neville
- Hon H. and Lady Fedora Sturt
- Hon. H. Stonor
- Captain the Hon. Hedworth Lambton
- Mr. F. Menzies and Miss Muriel Wilson
- Miss Naylor
- Mr. Arthur Paget
- Mr. Cyril Foley
- Mr. C. de Murietta
- Mr. Layoock
The Ball
[edit | edit source]The invitations generally required that the costumes reflect the periods of Louis XV and Louis XVI of France:
The choice of costume was restricted to the period covering the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI., with powdered hair or white wigs, but gentlemen were given the option of appearing in English Court dress with Louis XV. wigs.[4]
Warwick Castle was decorated for the ball by Caryll Craven, who was also a guest.
Great preparations were made the Castle, the greater portion of which has been most lavishly decorated in the light and airy French style of the period. The dancing will take place in the Cedar drawing-room, the adjoining rooms having been set apart as retiring rooms. Supper will be served in the Great Hall, where the whole of the guests will be able to sit down together. The decorations have been carried out under the personal supervision of the hostess, who has received the valuable assistance and advice of Mr. Caryll Craven. The dance music will be supplied by Worm's famous "White Viennese" Band, while Johnson's (Manchester) Band will discourse in the supper room.[4]
The Leamington Spa Courier says that the Countess of Warwick attempted to replicate the interior of the Tuilleries Castle, which by 1895 no longer existed.
The long suite of rooms, with the abundance of rich and historic art treasures therein contained, was most tastefully and effectively decorated, and the gilded and brocaded furniture and lovely fittings were arranged so as to form a replica of the interior of the Tuilleries at the period which the Countess had, with consummate judgment, selected for representation. Wide-spreading palms were placed at different points, and rare flowers of brilliant hues from Cannes and other parts of Southern Europe were seen on every hand. The whole was brilliantly illuminated by innumerable wax candles affixed to crystal chandeliers, in addition to the rays of the electric light, emitted from glow-lamps so constructed as to simulate candles, and having the bulbs hidden by delicately tinted shades; and when the guests in their picturesque costumes perambulated the apartments, the spectacle afforded was unique and enthralling.[2]
Main Newspaper Report
[edit | edit source]The Leamington Spa Courier had the definitive story in the next issue, a week after the event:
THE GRAND BAL POUDRE AT WARWICK CASTLE.
A profound impression has been created throughout the country by the enormously successful bal poudre given by the Earl and Countess of Warwick at Warwick Castle on Friday night last week, a lengthy, but — owing to the exigencies of the occasion — necessarily incomplete record of which appeared in our issue on the following morning. It is conceded on all hands that it was unmistakably the most splendidly organised and artistically perfect function of the kind that has been given during the present century, and certainly unexampled in the annals of the county. In times past, the historic fortlace has been the scene of many gay and festive re-unions, but history gives no mention of one that in any way equalled in point of completeness of detail or magnificence that in which some 400 of the present Earl and Countess’s guests participated on Friday night. For the nonce, the prosaic modern gave place to the splendour of the past, and the luxurious and gorgeous conditions which prevailed at the Tuilleries during the glories of the regime of Louis XV., and the reign of his ill-fated successor and his beautiful consort, were revived in all their sparkling radiance, thus creating a pageant of unrivalled grandeur and beauty, and one that will be long retained in the recollections of those who took part in or were permitted to gaze upon it. Moreover, never, perhaps, had the old Castle had within its walls such a notable company, including as it did, some of the most distinguished personages of the day, connections of Royalty, Ambassadors, of foreign Powers, Dukes and Duchesses, Earls and Countesses, Lords and Ladies, representatives of the three great services of the State, Statesman, lawyers, and other ornaments of the highest and most aristocratic circles. The long suite of rooms, with the abundance of rich and historic art treasures therein contained, was most tastefully and effectively decorated, and the gilded and brocaded furniture and lovely fittings were arranged so as to form a replica of the interior of the Tuilleries at the period which the Countess had, with consummate judgment, selected for representation. Wide-spreading palms were placed at different points, and rare flowers of brilliant hues from Cannes and other parts of Southern Europe were seen on every hand. The whole was brilliantly illuminated by innumerable wax candles affixed to crystal chandeliers, in addition to the rays of the electric light, emitted from glow-lamps so constructed as to simulate candles, and having the bulbs hidden by delicately tinted shades; and when the guests in their picturesque costumes perambulated the apartments, the spectacle afforded was unique and enthralling. The most striking scenes, however, were witnessed in the Cedar Drawing-room when the dancing was in full operation, and again when the richly-dressed and white-wigged guests sat down to supper in the grand Banquetting-hall. (6, Col. 1a/1b)
The guests commenced to arrive about half-past ten, and carriages continued to roll up until close upon midnight. The traffic was directed by the same staff of police who were in attendance at the recent concert, and these were also assisted by the Commissionaires. Under the instructions of the House Steward, Inspector Hall and his men guided the traffic most skilfully, notwithstanding that the entrance to the courtyard beneath the gateway and barbican is very narrow. Precaution had been taken to fix a large number of lamps along the approaches to the Castle, to minimise the danger of an accident. The guests did not use the grand entrance under the porch, but entered by the door at the other end beyond the chapel, over which a large striped awning served as a porch and a crush room, the interior being decorated with flowering and foliage plants, and splendidly lighted by pendant lamps. They then passed through the armour passage to the centre State Drawing-room, adjoining the ballroom, where they were received by the Countess, the train of whose lovely and charming costume, a la Marie Antoinette, was borne by her little daughter, Lady Marjorie Greville, and a young companion, Miss Hamilton, who were attired as imitation China shepherdesses in white broche silk, and large white satin hats, trimmed with roses and long ostrich feathers, and carried wands. Dancing commenced at a quarter to 11, the music being supplied by Herr Wurms’ Viennese band, the members of which wore the dress of the period carried out in white and gold, and were ensconced in an orchestra formed in one of the arched windows. The ball was opened by a quadrille, in which one set was made up of the Countess and Count Demyn (the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador), the Duchess of Sutherland and M. de Soverel [sic] (the Portuguese Ambassador), Princess Henry of Pless and the Earl of Warwick, and Prince Henry of Pless and Lady Feodora Sturt. The programmes of dance music were in book form, bearing a miniature medallion of Marie Antoinette on the one side, and Warwick Castle, set in a little Louis Quinze frame, on the other. The scene, while the dancing was in full swing, was replete with animation and splendid beauty. The infinite variety of costumes, flashing diamonds and other jewels, and a brilliance of colour ever changing with wondrous rapidity, as the dancers advanced and receded, or mingled in the crowd, backed by the cedar pannelling with the light falling from the candelabra and incandescent electric lights upon the fine Vandyck family portraits hanging round it, the large crystal chandeliers pending from the white and gold ceiling, and standing in each corner of the room and on either side of the great marble and alabaster mantelpiece, made up a picture at once quaint, full of life, animation, and picturesque beauty. Shortly after midnight, three trumpeters, correctly dressed in the gold-bedecked uniform of English heralds of the time of Louis XV., took up a position at the entrance to the banquetting hall and gave the signal that supper was served, by blowing a fanfare. Thereupon, a procession was formed, the Conntess [sic] of Warwick leading the way with Count Deym. M. de Soverel followed with the Duchess of Sutherland; then came the Earl of Warwick with Princess Henry of Pless, Prince Henry with Lady Feodora Sturt, the Earl of Lonsdale with Mrs Arthur Paget, and Lord Kenyon with Mrs Miller-Munday [sic for Mundy]. [6, Col. 1b–c] This party of 12 seated themselves at the centre table, other guests occupying the round and oval tables, about 14 in number, and each laid for eight. Special arrangements had been made for the serving of souper, which was supplied entirely from the Castle kitchens, and it was originally intended, when it was thought the number of guests would not exceed 240, that all should sit down together. But the applications from those who wished to be included in what may, without exaggeration, be termed an historical event in the social functions of Warwickshire, were so very numerous that it was necessary to divide the company into two sections. On the centre table was an imposing display of the handsome gold and silver family plate, including a celebrated gold cup modelled by Benvenuto Cellini, and the floral embellishments consisted of choice flowers from Cannes and magnificent orchids from Trentham. The round and oval tables were also handsomely decorated with silver plate. The meal was a truly sumptuous one, and the menu, which was printed inside a little white and gold Louis XV. screen, having a picture of Warwick Castle on one side and “Souper, Février 1, 1895,” on the reverse, included some triumphs of the culinary art. The dessert comprised strawberries, apricots, grapes, pineapples, and other fruits rare and expensive at this season of the year,[sic] The hall, with its shining coats of mail, the magnificent Beauvais tapestry forming portieres and hanging from the gallery, the massive silver candelabra on the tables, and the immense ecclesiastical candlesticks standing on the floor and bearing torches which towered far above the heads of the guests, constituted a truly marvellous sight, and one upon which the eye never tired to dwell. To render the picture more complete, the servants, who flitted about attending upon the wants of the guests, were clothed in the livery of the period, some in white and gold and red velvet, and others in sabre suits of black, all wearing knee-breeches, silk stockings, and white wigs. The staff of servants at the Castle was quite inadequate to carry out the various duties which devolved upon them in consequence of the ball, and Mr J. Hall (the House-steward) consequently found it necessary to engage a special staff of first-class waiters from London. A few privileged persons, to whom tickets had previously been issued, were admitted to the long narrow passage in the thickness of the wall near the roof, which was discovered at the time of the disastrous fire in 1871, to which access is gained through the oak and carnation rooms. After supper, dancing was resumed, and continued with unabated vigour until considerably after four o’clock, the Countess remaining during the whole of that time with her guests.
One of the guests made an unfortunate miss of the train which cost him a good deal of inconvenience, and his host and hostess some anxiety. The gentleman in question was taken as one of a large house party in the county to Warwick, and there was a special train chartered from Milverton to carry the guests back to a station near the host's residence. A short time before his party were returning home, the guest went into the smoke-room at the Castle, and though the heard the name of his host called, he thought it was the company of a lady of the same name who were wanted. In the end the gentleman was left behind, and then he drove to Leamington, but could get no train from there. All the hotels were [6, Col. 1c–2a] full, and so it was no use to apply there for a bed. The consequence was he had to spend the night in a waiting room either at Leamington or Milverton Station, getting back to the country house on Saturday. He will long remember Lady Warwick’s ball.
Letters have been received from guests expressing satisfaction in regard to the efficient way in which the police carried out their duties. It may be stated that the numerous alterations and renovations at the Castle, especially in regard to the private apartments, have been carried out by Messrs Bertram and Sons, the great upholsterers, of Dean-street, Soho.
As one of the lady guests was alighting from her carriage at the Castle, on Friday night, a large diamond and turquoise ornament, valued at 200 guineas, became detached from her hair, and fell to the ground. The loss was quickly discovered, and, fortunately, the costly ornament was recovered intact.
Viscount Dungarven, whe was to have formed one of Mr W. M. Low’s party, was prevented by unforseen circumstances from attending the ball. Mr Perry (Bitham House) was also prevented attending by illness.
LIST OF GUESTS.
It has been found impossible to obtain a complete list of the names of the guests owing to the fact that the presentation of tickets was dispensed with, and we have, therefore, been compelled to rely on extraneous sources for information. The following is a list of the names of a large number of those present at the function:—
PRINCES [init caps large, rest sm] — Francis of Teck and Henry of Pless (Viscomte de Bragabene [Bragelonne?].)
PRINCESS — Henry of Pless (Adrienne Lecouvreur.)
EARLS — Clonmell (modern Court dress), Rosslyn (Duc de Nemours), Lonsdale (M. de Copinson, Keeper of the Koyal [sic] Stud, Louis XV.), and Chesterfield (Court costume.)
DUKE of Manchester (Marquis de Grammont.)
DUCHESS of Sutherland (Queen of Louis XV.)
MARQUIS of Hertford (Court costume.)
MARCHIONESS of Hertford (Court costume.)
COUNT Paiffy (costume Louis XV.)
COUNTESSES Cairns (Duchess de Bouillon) and Rosslyn (Marchande Coquette.)
COMTESSE Ahlefeldt-Laurvig (Dame de la temps Louis XVI.)
VISCOUNTS — Southwell (Court dress of the period), and Clifden (Court dress of the period ).
HIS EXCELLENCY the Portuguese Minister (Mousquetaire of the 2ud [sic] Company of the Royal Household, Louis XV.)
HIS EXCELLENCY the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador (English Court dress.)
LORDS — Burford (Mousquetaire), Cecil Manners (Court dress of the period), Churchill (Mons. de Brissac), Kenyon (officer of the Regiment du Roi, Louis XVI.), Clifton (officer of the Guards, Louis XV.), Lovat (Comte d’Artagnas), Richard Neville (Duc de Lauzun), Frederick Hamilton; Royston (Souis Brigadier of Mousquetaires, Louis XVI.), Grey de Wilton (gentlemen temps Louis XV.). and Doneraile (modern Court dress.)
LADIES — Norreys (Paysaune Galante), Ann Murray (Madame de Pompadour), Waller (Comtesse d’Artois), Peel (costume 1787), Chetwode, Angela St. Clair Erskine (Lady Mary Campbell), Eva Greville (Polichinelle, Louis (XV.), G. Petre, Feodora Sturt (Madame la Marquise de la Pompadour), Gerard (Duchess de Pognac), Edith Seymour (Lady of the reign of Louis XVI.), Mordaunt (Princess de Lambelle), and Churchill (French Marquise in the time of Louis XV.)
SIRS — Algernon Osborne (civilian costume, Louis XV.), Archibald Edmonstone (Mousquetuaire), Francis Burdett, Charles Mordaunt (gentleman of the time of Louis XVI.), and F. Peel.
[6, Col. 2a–b]
HONOURABLES — Mrs Louis Greville (dress of the period), Dudley Ward (Mousquetaire), C. Finch (gentleman of the period of Louis XV.), Captain Alwyn Greville (Mousquetaire), Mr and Mrs Chandos Leigh, Mrs Alwyn Greville (Dame de la Court Louis XV.), Captain Hedworth Lambton (Courtier of Louis XVI.), Humphrey Sturt, M.P. (Abbé Bouvet), Mrs E. Lyon (à la Watteau), Mrs Dudley Ward, B. W. H. Stoner (Mousquetaire, Louis XVI.), Sidney Greville (officer of the Regiment of the Swiss Guards), Louis Greville (Mousquetaire, Regiment de Provence, Louis XV.), George Keppel (Mousquetaire), Mrs George Keppel (lady, t[i]me of Louis XVI.), Malcolm Lyon, Mrs Herbert Dormer (costume, Louis XV.), Mrs Frank Parker, and Cecil Freemantle (Court dress of the period).
BARONS — Macar (Court dress of the period) and Schimmelpennick Van der Oye (Court dress).
BARONESS — Schimmelpennick Van der Oye (costume Louis XVI.)
GENERAL — Arbuthnot (Court dress of the period).
COLONELS — Paulet and Mildmay Willson, C.B. (Scots Guards).
MAJORS — Armstrong (modern Court dress), Norris Fosbery (Mousquetaire), and Alston.
CAPTAINS — Molesworth (Mousquetaire), J. Barry (costume, Louis XVI.), Somerset (Mousquetaire), Brinkley (Court costume of the period), East (Mousquetaire), Granville (Mousquetaire), Cowan, Lafone, Keighly-Peach, Bruce Hamilton, H. Welman (Court dress), Grant, Towers Clark (Court dress), Allfrey (Court dress, Louis XV.), and Oxley, 60th Rifles.
MESDAMES — Armstrong (French Marquise), Gerald Arbuthnot (Court Dame), Armitage (Dame de la temps Louis XV.), H. Allfrey (Marquise, temps Louis XV.), Brinkley (Court Dame, Louis XV.), Frank Bibby (Lady of the Court of Louis XVI.), Everard Browne (Court Dame), Beech, Aubrey Cartwright, Chamberlayne (Court dress), Cowan, Cove-Jones, H. Chamberlain, George Cartland, Cartwright (Court Dame), J. S. Dugdale (Court lady), Blanche Drummond, Lindsay Eric-Smith (Pompadour costume), Fosbery, Wilson Fitzgerald, Fairfax-Lucy (Marquise Louis XV.), Granville, Graham, Gaskell (Grande Dame), Hulton (Court costume), Harvey Drummond, Irwin, Joliffe (Watteau), Edward Lucas (Lady of Court Louis XVI.), Morton P. Lucas (Court Lady, Louis XV.), E. Little, Leslie (of Balquhain), Lakin (Madame Roland), W. M. Low, Leslie (a la Watteau), Beresford Melville (Dame de la Court), J. Menzies (Duchess d’Angoulêne), Molesworth (costume Louis XVI.), Basil Montgomery (Marquise), Miller-Munday [sic] (Marie Therese, Queen of the Sicilies), Robert O. Milne (Dame de la Louis XVI.), Norris, Osborne (Madame de Pompadour), Arthur Paget (Duchess d’Orleans), Paulet, Ramsden (Madame de Colonne), Arthur Somerset (Shepherdess a la Watteau), Smythe, L. Gay Scott, Beauchamp Scott (Lady of time of Louis XVI.), Shaw, Sanders, Fred Shaw, S. C. Smith (Marquise temps Louis XVI.), Tree (Lady Louis XVI. period), Thursby-Pelham (Court dress), Tower (Duchess de Polignac), Towers-Clark (Lady of the Court of Louis XV.)[,] Francis Williams, Wheatley (Lady of time of Louis XV.), West [(]Court costume Louis XV.), and Francis Williams (Louis XV. costume).
[6, Col. 2b–c]
MADEMOISELLES — Allfrey, Armstrong (a laWatteau), Bromley Davenport, N. Booker (English lady of the Court of King George III.), Booker (Lady of time of Louis XV.), Muriel Bell, Nora Battye, Decapell Brooke, Spender Clay (Mdme Lamballe), Carleton (Watteau, Louis XV.), Chetwode, Anna Cassel, Carruthers (costume of the period Louis XV.), Champion, Hugh Drummond (Court costume), Constance Dormer (costume, Louis XV.), Beatrice Fitzherbert (Court Dame), Lucy (Mademoiselle de Montmirail), Granville, Gaskell (costume, Louis XV.), Hodgson (a la Watteau), Gladys Hankey (Marquese, reign Louis XV.), Irwin, Keighly-Peach akin (Dame de la Cours, Louis XV.), Lakin (a la Watteau), Lister-Kaye, Violet Leigh (Mdlle. de Chévreuse), Murray, Miller-Mundy (Court dress), J. Menzies (Duchess d’ Angoulêne), Naylor (Lady of the Court of Louis XV.), Nicol, Osborne (Mdme. de Pompadour, in garden dress), Perry, Constance Peel, Ramsden (Mdlle. de Colonne), E. N. Ramsden (Mdlle. de Coloane), Rushton (Lady of the Court of Louis XV), C. Starkey, Cicely Dudley Smith (Court dress, Louis XVI.), May Sanders (Louis XVI. costume), Cornwallis West (Mdlle. de la Court), Muriel Wilson (English costume of the period, Louis XV. and XVI.), Fleetwood Wilson (Lady, time Louis XVI.), and Waller (Fille de la Comtesse d’Artoix).
MESSIEURS — G. A. Arbuthnot (modern Court dress), W. C. Alston (Infanterie Regiment de Forés), Allfrey, J. Arkwright, W. Armstrong, J. P. Arkwright, Robertson Aikman, Frank Bibby, Bromley-Davenport, Brinckman, P. B. Vander Byl (Mousquetaire), Beaumont, 60th Rifles, L. Bethell (Mousquetaire), Bainbridge, A. E. Batchelor (Garde de la Porte), Everard Browne (gentleman, temps Louis XV.), R. Barnes, Battye, F. C. Hunter Blair (Mousquetaire), Beech (Garde au corps du Roi), C. B. Clutterbuck (Mousequetaire), Cassel (modern Court dress), Collings (modern court dress), Felix Cassel, Caryl Craven (military uniform of the period), Aubrey Cartwright, Chamberlayne, Bertram Chaplin, Cove-Jones, E. S. Chattock, H. Chamberlain, Drummond Chaplin (Court dress), G. Cartland, J. S. Dugdale (Recorder), M. Farquahar (Mousquetaire), Cyril Foley (officer du corps du Roi Pologne Stanilas), Kenneth Foster (Mousquetaire), S. M. Fraser (Mousquetaire), Fairfax-Lucy (Colonel George Lucy), J. S. Forbes (Mousquetaire), B. J. Fitzgerald (Mousquetaire), Francis Fitz-Herbert (Fusilier du Roi), J. B. Fitz-Herbert (gentleman, temps Louis XV.), Wilson Fitzgerald, R. Flower (modern Court dress), Francis, Flower (modern Court dress), Granville, J, Grenfell, Graham, G. de J. Hamilton (Mousequetaire), E. Harrington (Mousquetaire), Hutton, Head, H. T. Hickman (Court dress), Percival Hodgson (Court dress), Irwin, Joliffe, Joostens (Diplomatic Court dress), M. T. Kennard (Maison du Roi), F. Laycock (officer of Pondicherry Regiment), Morton P. Lucas (gentleman of the period), R. W. Lindsay (Court dress, late 18th century), E. Little, Lister-Kay, Lakin (modern Court dress), R. Lakin (the Duc de Brissac), Richard Lant (modern court dress), John Lant (M. Vauthier), H. G. Lakin (the Marquis de Breze), W. M. Low (David Garrick), Meyrick, Murray (Mousquetaire), C. de Murietta (Marechal Saxe), J. Moncrieffe (gentleman of the period), H. Mordaunt (gentleman, temps. Louis XV.), T. J. Meyrick (gentleman, temps. XV.), F. Menzies, H. Molesworth, Basil Montgomery (Courtier, Louis XV.), John Monckton, R. O. Milne (Chevan-le’ ger de la Garde du Roi, Louis XVI.), H. du C. Norris (Court dress, Louis XV.), J. Norris (Marquis of France), Norton (Louis XVI. costume), C. S. Paulet (modern Court dress), Quinton-Dick (Mousquetaire), Arthur Paget, Ralph Paget (dress of Louis XV.), Oswald Petre (modern Court dress), George Peel, W. R. W. Peel, G. R. Powell (Court dress), Mark J. Paget (gentleman of period of Louis XV.), Ramsden (Mons. de Calonne), L. G. Scott (Mousquetaire), H. Spender Clay (Court dress of the period), Smythe, Shaw, S. Sanders (Mousquetaire), F. Shaw, S. O. Smith (modern court dress), M. Oswald Smith (gentleman of the Court of Louis XVI.), Cameron Skinner, W. L. Thursby (Mousequetaire), C. J. H. Tower (officier Gardes Suisses), Tree, Thursby-Pelham, Tower (officier Gardes Suisses), J. H. Wheatley (modern Court dress), Read Walker (officier d'Infanterie), Francis Williams, Montague Wood, West, Gordon Wood and Anthony White.
DESCRIPTION OF COSTUMES.
Appended are descriptions of the chief costumes worn:—
Field Marshal, Louis XVI. — Military coat with the long skirts of the period, having turned-back revers of white cloth, laced, after the military fashion, with gold, white knee-breeches and silk stockings. The cravat and ruffles were of lace. A white wig in Louis XVI. style, and a three-cornered black beaver hat with gold braid all round the brim, which was edged with small white ostrich plumes, completed a handsome and artistic costume. A sword was worn in a swordbelt of the period.
Marie Antoinette — Gala costume. Rich brocade dress, with a ground of a delicate tint of pearl, with a suggestion of pink in it, the design roses in gold, with gold foliage, lilies in white, some small blue flowers and clusters of pink blossoms, with bright old-world green as foliage. The skirt was quite plain, and the [6, Col. 2c–3a] bodice drawn into shaped points at the hips, so that it sat right out at either side. It was full, and about a yard on the ground at the back. The bodice was finished with points back and front, and was cut with absolute perfection. Round the shoulders were full soft folds of gold-flecked French silk muslin edged with beautiful gold lace. The sleeves were plain and tight to the elbow, whence they were finished with triple frills of the gold-flecked muslin, each bordered with gold lace, and with ruffles falling from beneath the frills of point d’Alençon lace. The frills were headed with bands of gold embroidery. At the back, suspended from both shoulders by gold cords, was a beautiful Court mantle of deep rich blue velvet, not so pale as turquoise nor so strong as the shade we call Royal, but a bright lovely colour. This was embroidered all over with a raised design of fleur de lys in dull and burnished gold, and was lined with the same blue velvet. The hair was dressed high with a magnificently embroidered head-dress. Her ladyship wore the Warwick family diamonds round her neck as a collar, a turquoise velvet cap clasped with jewels on her white coiffure and a bandeau of family jewels under her cap. Her court mantle was fastened at the shoulders with a tiara of diamonds widened out so as to clasp the cloak from shoulder to shoulder.
THE COMTESSSE AHLEFELDT.
Dame de Ia temps Louis XVI. — cream silk petticoat, with front of real ha[n]d-worked silk embroidery, done in the time of Louis XVI., the design being convolvulus and other flowers wrought in dull pink, blue, and green silks, and feathers tied with true lover’s knots. There was a bright shell pink tunic-shaped overdress, with Watteau back, edged with real Brussels, white silk stomacher, large pink bows in front and on each hip; and wreath of pink roses.
MRS GERALD ARBUTHNOT.
Brocade gown with Watteau back and paniers, cerise satin petticoat, studded with large blue satin bows, cerise velvet stomacher, fechu of Brussels lace; head-dress, cap of cerise velvet and blue plumes.
MRS ARMITAGE.
Dame de la temps Louis XV. — Light grey satin dress brocaded with bunches of cyclamen, roses with green leaves, and ornamented with velvet to match, and groups of yellow and cyclamen roses.
MRS ARMITAGE (KIRROUGHTEN).
Lady of the Court of Louis XVI. — Bodice and short train, with Watteau plait of pale heliotrope and green brocade, with large revers of heliotrope satin, and bodice trimmed with petunia velvet and petunia and yellow roses and lace; petticoat of heliotrope satin and lace flounces, diamond and sapphire ornaments; hair poudré, with heliotrope feathers.
MISS ARMSTRONG.
A la Watteau. — White watered silk, brocaded with stripes and clusters of roses. The front of the petticoat was draped with blue chiffon, and edged at the bottom with pink roses, bodice with blue satin bows in front, and on the shoulders and neck, and sleeves trimmed with full white chiffon and pink roses, powdered hair, wreath of roses and blue bow.
MRS ARMSTRONG. French Marquise. — Handsome cream coloured real old brocade with black velvet front, and trimmings of very old point de Venice, and festoons of pink roses.
[6, Col. 3a–b]
MRS EVERARD BROWNE.
Brocaded satin with silver stripes.
MRS FRANK BIBBY.
Lady of the Court of Louis XVI. — White satin dress, with skirt draped with old lace, pink chiffon sash embroidered with silver; diamond buttons on corsage.
CAPTAIN BRINKLEY (WARWICK).
Court dress of the period — Claret-coloured coat and knee-breeches, white silk embroidered waistcoat, white silk stockings and old paste buckled shoes, Louis XVI. wig, and Court sword.
MRS BRINKLEY.
Marquise du Deffant — Train of white brocade embroidered in roses and forget-me-nots, the paniers lined and turned back with green satin and guipure; petticoat of pink satin and old Honiton lace, trimmed with pink roses; Louis XV. wig, with roses and diamonds.
THE EARL OF BURFORD.
Military costume of Louis XV.’s time — White cloth with pale blue facings, trimmed handsomely and effectively with gold.
MISS MURIEL BELL.
Princesse de Lamballe — Pink satin brocade, white petticoat, pink roses; hair poudré.
MISS N. BATTYE (LONDON).
English dress of the period — Light blue satin dress[,] lace fichu, large black velvet hat with white ostrich feathers.
MISS DE CAPELL BROOKE.
Lady of the time of Louis XV. — Pink figured silk, over white satin skirt, edged with gold gimp, Watteau back; hair powdered.
MR BEECH.
Garde du Corps du Roi — Crimson coat, white facings, and gold lace.
MRS BEECH.
Madame de La Fayette — Old brocade, with lace and crimson roses and black velvet bows.
MR F. C. HUNTER BLAIR (LEAMINGTON).
Mousquetaire Uniform Louis XV., in white, scarlet, and gold.
CAPTAIN JIM BARRY (LONDON).
Mousquetaire Louis XV. — Black knee-breeches, light blue coat and waistcoat, faced with white, and trimmed with gold lace.
MR CARYL CRAVEN.
Mousquetaire, Louis XVI. — White and gold.
THE EARL OF CHESTERFIELD.
Court costume — Coat of pale blue corded silk, the cuffs, pocket flaps, and fronts all richly wrought with gold, while the buttons were old paste and amethysts. The knee-breeches were blue silk, and the blue silk stockings were clocked with gold, and Court shoes were worn, with diamond buckles, The waistcoat was of yellow satin, brocaded with pink rosebuds, and having old paste and amethyst buttons. A jabot of old lace was pinned with a diamond brooch, and the ruffles were of similar lace. A white wig was worn with a three-cornered gold-laced and white-plumed hat.
[6, Col. 3b–c]
COUNTESS CAIRNS.
Duchess de Bouillon — Dress of light-hued satin, with relief of pink diamonds, and pink roses in the hair.
MR CHAPLIN.
Court suit of green silk velvet, with embroidered vest and white wig.
LORD CHURCHILL.
Court costume — Blue brocade, with steel buttons and knot of ribbon, fringed with silver on one shoulder; white satin waistcoat and blue knee-breeches.
LORD CLIFTON.
Officer of the Guards, Louis XV. — Coat of pale green cloth, turned back with crimson, and laced with gold.
MISS SPENDER CLAY.
Madme. Lamballe — A pretty pink and white brocade dress in the style of Louis XV., and with large hat, trimmed with ostrich plumes and roses. She carried a white wand surmounted by roses.
MISS CARLETON.
Watteau, Louis XV. — Blue silk brocaded dress, with little pink roses, and pink satin petticoat with Watteau pleat, hair arranged with pink wreath of roses and pink feathers.
MRS CARTWRIGHT.
White satin dress, trimmed with sable and point de gaze lace; musseline de soie fichu edged with lace, and caught up with clusters of pink roses.
MISS CHAMPION (NORFOLK).
Dress of old brocade; petticoat of Rose de Barri satin, trimmed with pearls and lace; lace fichu, large rose hat with plumes, and pearl ornaments.
MRS CHAMBERLAYNE (STONEY THORPE).
Marquise Louis XV. — Pink satin petticoat, yellow flowered silk bodice, and train from the shoulders; pink satin ribbon and diamonds in the powdered hair.
MISS CARUTHERS (WARDINGTON, BANBURY).
Short-waisted dress of period Louis XV.; yellow brocade over yellow satin petticoat; old lace and roses.
MR BERTRAM CHAPLIN.
Period Louis XVI. — White satin coat and breeches, pink satin waistcoat.
MR QUENTIN DICK.
Officer of the Household of Louis XV. — White cloth uniform, faced with blue, and braided with gold.
MISS DRUMMOND (SHERBOURNE HOUSE).
A blue brioche, brocaded with pink roses and leaves, and gaily trimmed with pink Banksia roses, petticoat of white satin, flounced with lovely Brussels lace, bodice [sic] of bioche silk, with white front trimmed with roses and old-fashioned gauze, necklace of roses and pearls, and wreath of roses.
HON. MRS HUBERT DORMER (LONDON).
Court dress Louis XVI. — Petticoat of pink satin, point lace flounce; overdress of dark red satin, in paniers, looped with red and pink roses, diamond and pearl ornaments.
MR J. S. DUGDALE, Q.C.
Recorder’s Court dress of the period — Black silk gown with lace ruffles, black silk stockings, buckle shoes, and full bottomed wig.
MRS J. S. DUGDALE.
A very handsome bright blue silk brocaded with white, and made à la Pompadour, with white satin front trimmed with dark fur, the bodice made with pearl trimmings, and a white muslin fichu tied at one side under a bunch of pink roses, hair dressed with blue feathers, wreath of pink roses, and a tiara of diamonds in front.
[6, Col. 3c–4a]
MISS CONSTANCE DORMER (HASTINGS.)
Marquise Louis XVI. — Gown of white silk brocaded with roses, Watteau back. Pearl ornaments.
LADY ANGELA ST. CLAIR ERSKINE.
Lady Mary Campbell — White muslin costume, with broad blue silk sash.
SIR ARCHIBALD EDMONSTONE.
Mousquetaire — White cloth uniform, faced with blue and showing a blue waistcoat, the whole having a large amount of silver military braiding.
MRS LINDSAY ERIC-SMITH (ELFINSWARD, HAYWARD'S HEATH. [sic no paren]
Pompadour dress, period Louis XVI. — Yellow brocade, and white satin petticoat.
MRS FAIRFAX-LUCY (CHARLECOTE).
A Marquise. — Rich white brocade dress, with blue and straw brocade saque, edged with Brussels lace, and Brussels lace flounce, Vandycked round, petticoat with pink roses, lace ruffles and fichu, and pink roses and diamonds in the hair completed the costume.
MR FAIRFAX-LUCY (CHARLECOTE).
Colonel George Lucy — Red lilac-coloured cloth suit, Court dress of the period, edged with silver lace, and belonged to Colonel G. Lucy in 1744; silk stockings of the same colour, high-heeled shoes, with diamond buckles, and knee buckles, lace ruffles, and cravat.
MR BASIL J. FITZGERALD.
Mousquetaire — Uniform of dark green cloth, faced with tan, and trimmed with silver, old point d’Alencon ruffles, tan silk sash, and cross belt of tan and silver.
MR B. FITZGERALD.
Mousquetaire — White uniform, with orange velvet facings braided with gold, crossbelt of white and gold, a yellow sash, and the high black leather boots of the period.
MRS WILSON-FITZGERALD.
Dress of the real old brocade of Louis XV.’s reign.
THE HON. CLEMENT FINCH.
Gentleman of the period Louis XV. — Coat of blue watered silk, with silver trimming, satin breeches to match, white satin vest, and black hat decked with silver.
MISS BEATRICE FITZHERBERT.
Dress of pale blue satin, lined with pink, with pink roses on the corsage, Louis XVI. period. She wore a beautiful pearl necklace, with large diamond pendant, and two diamond sprays, all of which were given by George IV. to Mrs Fitzberbert.
MAJOR FOSBERY (WARWICK).
Mousquetaire — Claret-coloured tunic, with salmon-colour cuffs, lace ruffles, &c.
MRS FOSBERY (WARWICK).
Marquise — Pink satin petticoat, covered with lace, grey and pink brocaded bodice and train, pink roses and ostrich plume in powdered hair.
LADY GERARD.
Duchess de Pognac — Dress of pale blue brocade, decked with small roses, with front of pink satin; fichu of muslin and lace, and stomacher of lace and roses.
[6, Col. 4a–b]
LADY EVA GREVILLE.
Polichinelle, Louis XV. — White satin gown ornamented at the bottom with a trelliswork of silver, studded with small pink roses; corsage to correspond, and fastened across the stomacher by large diamond hooks and eyes.
THE HON. SIDNEY GREVILLE.
Officer of the Regiment of Swiss Guards — Coat of pale blue cloth, nearly bordering on green — quite a turquoise shade. The revers were white, and turned back from a white waistcoat braided with gold. The braiding was continued down the white revers of the coat and on the skirts; white satin knee-breeches, silk stockings, Court shoes, white wig, and three-cornered hat, trimmed with gold braid and white ostrich feathers, completed one of the most effective of military attires. A sword was, of course, worn.
THE HON. LOUIS GREVILLE.
Mousquetaire, Louis XV. — Claret-coloured coat, laced with gold over white; a white silk sash, sword-belt of red cloth with gold, white knee-breeches, Court shoes, silk stockings, and the wig and three-cornered hat of the time.
THE HON. MRS LOUIS GREVILLE.
Dress of the period — Petticoat of deep rose-petal pink satin, with a full flounce of white lace headed by trails of roses; over-dress of white satin, brocaded with a design of roses and lined with pale-green satin, pointed bodice showing a pink vest laced across, and ruffles and fichu of Mechlin lace to correspond with the flounce. The hair was powdered and dressed high, with an ornament of roses and diamonds at one side.
CAPTAIN THE HON. ALWYN GREVILLE.
Mousquetaire — Coat of scarlet cloth, cuffs and fronts turned back with white and laced with gold, and broad red silk sash, white knee-breeches, silk stockings, and Court shoes.
THE HON. MRS ALWYN GREVILLE.
Dame de la Court Louis XV. — Over-dress of pink mirror velvet bordered with dark fur, opening over a front of cream satin, long pink velvet sleeves with roses and fichu of fine old lace on the corsage; hair dressed a la Princess Lambale.
MRS GARKELL.
Grande Dame — Blue shot-satin dress adorned with point, d’Alençon lace, veiled with silver tissue under white gauze and tied up by a wide blue chiffon sash caught at the arm-holes with diamond buttons; ornaments, enamelled medallions set in diamonds.
MRS GASKELL.
Gainsborough costume — White satin and blue chiffon, Louis XVI.; old diamond necklace.
MISS GASKELL.
Costume, Louis XV. — Blue and pink costume of that period, with a very large black velvet hat, trimmed with blue feathers.
MISS GORDON.
All in white, lined with blue satin, the front of the bodice made of fine muslin, caught up with small pink roses; and a little wreath of pink roses in the hair, and diamonds.
MARCHIONESS OF HERTFORD.
Lady time of Louis XVI. — Black velvet dress and train, white satin front covered with old point lace; long pointed bodice with lace fichu, long velvet sleeves lined with white satin, front of dress covered with diamonds. White full-dress wig, with lace lappets and diamonds.
MRS ERNEST HUTTON (GROVE PARK, WARWICK.)
Marquise Louis XVI. — Overdress of light green satin brocaded with pink roses and faced with pale pink satin over white satin petticoat, with lace flounce beaded with pink roses. Pearl and diamond ornaments.
[6, Col. 4b–c]
MR HUTTON (GROVE PARK).
English Court dress — Black velvet, point lace ruffles.
MR H. T. HICKMAN.
Court dress, time of Louis XV. — Black velvet coat, knee-breeches, trimmed with white lace.
MRS HUTTON.
Court costume — Dress with paniers of pale-green brocade over a white satin petticoat having a flounce of lace headed by roses.
MISS HODGSON.
A la Watteau — Sang de boeuf coloured satin petticoat, trimmed with old lace, caught up with roses; a corset and polonaise of rose figured satin, the latter trimmed with deep revers of green satin; white wig; ornaments, pearls and diamonds.
M. JOOSTENS (BELGIAN LEGATION, LONDON).
Courtier, Louis XVI. — White satin knee breeches, claret velvet coat and waistcoat, point lace ruffles.
MRS H. JOLIFFE (GOLDICOTE).
Marquise of Louis XV. — Blue silk brocaded dress with pink roses, the petticoat of pink satin trimmed with white lace and pink roses, and the over-dress turned back with green satin edged with gold embroidery.
LORD KENYON.
Officier of the Regiment du Roi, Louis XVI. — Handsome dress of white cloth faced with pale-blue and laced with gold.
THE HON. GEORGE KEPPEL (2, Wilton Crescent, London).
Mousequetaire — White cloth, with an exquisitely jewelled Order around his neck.
Lady, time Louis XVI. — Gown of shell pink satin, pointed bodice, with full paniers, of antique brocade of the real deep rose shade known as du Barri sewn with silver thread and bouquets of roses. Full petticoat, of dull creamy-tinted satin, with a deep band round it of silver tissue embroidered with garlands of small leafless roses. The sleeves had long ruffles of old lace. The hair was powdered and dressed elaborately and high, with three rose du Barri feathers in it and a little cap of lace. The shoes were of pink satin, with diamond buckles.
THE EARL OF LONSDALE.
M. de Capuisan, Keeper of the Royal Stud, Louis XV. — Coat and knee-breeches were of ruby velvet, richly wrought with gold and with rare and valuable paste buttons on the former, while the vest was of pearl-white satin edged with very beautiful embroidery, white silk stockings, Court shoes with diamond buckles, lace ruffles and jabot with diamond brooch, jewelled hilted Court sword, and white wig with three-cornered hat with gold lace and white plumes.
LORD LOVAT.
Comte d’Artagnas — Military costume of the period in white, faced with blue and laced with gold; an embroidered pouch slung from his belt, embroidered in gold, silk stockings, Court shoes, white wig, sword, and three-cornered hat.
MISS LUCY (CHARLECOTE PARK).
Madenoiselle de Montmirail — White satin petticoat, with deep flounce of Brussels lace, caught up with pompom; pink roses; witite brocade saque, laced with pearls; lace ruffles and fichu; large black velvet hat and plumes.
MISS LAKIN.
Watteau costume — White satin brocade with white satin petticoat, festooned with roses.
[6, Col. 4c–5a]
THE PORTUGUESE MINISTER (DON LOUIE DE LOUVERAL [Soveral]).
Mousquetaire of the 2nd Company of the Royal Household, Louis XV. — Scarlet, laced with gold and relieved with white, high black Mousquetaire boots, a plastron [sic] embroidered with the Royal arms, white wig, three-cornered hat gold-laced and white-plumed, sword.
MR RICHARD LANT (NAILCOTE HALL, COVENTRY).
Present day Court dress, with Louis XV. white wig.
HON. MRS CHANDOS LEIGH.
The Duchesse de Polignac, period Louis XVI. — Petticoat of pale pink brocade, with corsage and train of sapphire blue velvet and lace fichu.
MISS VIOLET LEIGH.
Mdlle. de Chévreuse, period Louis XV. — Petticoat of white satin, with lattice work of pink roses, corsage with paniers and Watteau plait of sxy blue satin, lined with pale pink satin; powdered hair, with small wreath of roses, pearls, and white plume.
MRS ERNEST LITTLE (OF NEWBOLD PACEY).
Lady of the reign of Louis XV. — Train of brocade, in white and purple, over dress of satin, trimmed with old lace and pink roses.
MR LINDSAY (RED HOUSE, BARFORD).
Court dress late 18th century, composed of black velvet.
MRS EDWARD LUCAS (15, LENNOX GARDENS, LONDON)
Lady of Court Louis XVI. — Pink brocade, with green satin petticoat.
MRS MORTON P. LUCAS (THE OAKS).
Court lady, Louis XV. — Black velvet bodice and train; and white satin petticoat trimmed Brussels lace and roses.
MR MORTON P. LUCAS.
Gentleman of the period — Black velvet Court dress, trimmed with steel, white satin waistcoat, and knee- breeches.
MISS LISTER-KAYE.
Period Louis XVI. — Blue silk brocade, white petticoat, pink roses.
MR LISTER LISTER-KAYE.
Period Louis XVI. — Plum-coloured velvet coat and breeches, brocaded satin waistcoat.
MRS LESLIE AND HON. MRS E. LYON.
A la Watteau — Dresses of white and gold flowered brioche, with plain white satin fronts handsomely painted, the design being large, full blown pink roses and butterflies; hip panniers, and the bodices were of gold brioche, with white satin fronts trimmed with lace, large pearls, and Cairngorm jewels, neck ruffles edged with pearls and gold, and aigrettes and velvet bow of pink and gold.
CAPTAIN THE HON. HEDWORTH LAMBTON.
Courtier of Louis XVI. — Coat of bronze satin, richly-embroidered knee-breeches, and richly-embroidered waistcoat of pearl white corded silk, lace ruffles and jabot, and all the details to correspond.
[6, Col. 5a–b]
DUKE OF MANCHESTER.
Marquis de Grammont — White satin knee-breeches, white silk stockings, shoes with paste buckles, a coat of real old Louis XVI. brocade, with a design of feathers in gold on a cream-coloured background and of pink rose sprays, the fronts, pockets, and cuffs all richly wrought in gold, and with fine old paste buttons. He had also an exquisite real lace jabot, fastened with an antique diamond brooch, a white satin waistcoat finely emboidered, white wig, and black three-cornered hat.
SIR C. MORDAUNT, BART.
Gentleman of the period — Coat and knee-breeches of black velvet, with waistcoat of black broché, all three trimmed with cut steel buttons; lace ruffles and necktie; white wig, three-cornered hat, gold-headed cane finished with red and green ribbons; black silk stockings, and shoes with silver buckles.
LADY MORDAUNT (WALTON HALL).
Princess de Lamballe — Bodice and train of rich white brocade, trimmed with lace and wreaths of small pink roses, the train being edged with them all round; over pink satin petticoat, ornamented with bows of lace, lace flounce, and vandykes of pink roses. Hair powdered, over a cushion with curls in the neck, with wreath of pink roses, and loops of pink ribbon: White satin shoes, with pink heels and pink rosettes. Row of pearls round neck.
MR BASIL MONTGOMERY.
Mousquetaire — Uniform of white cloth and Royal blue velvet, embroidered in gold.
MR MONCRIEFFE.
Gentleman of the period — Coat of pale vieux rose brocade trimmed with silver, satin breeches to match, sea-green satin waistcoat lightly worked over in silver, ruffles and jabot of white lace.
MR ROBERT O. MILNE.
Chevau léger de la Garde de Roi, Louis XVI. — Scarlet cloth coat, faced with gold lace, knee-breeches, three-cornered hat with ostrich feathers, large Hessian boots.
MR J. MONCRIEFFE.
Courtier Louis XVI. — Coat of yellow brocade, heliotrope knee-breeches, and gold laced heliotrope waistcoat. The coat had paste buttons, and the details as to wig, sword, ruffles, shoes, stockings, and three-cornered hat, were all correctly carried out.
MR H. MORDAUNT (WALTON).
Courtier of period Louis XV. — Coat of mauve brocade, full skirted and embroidered with gold, the waistcoat of mauve satin embroidered in floral design, knee breeches of shot manve and gold, silk stockings, Court shoes, powdered hair, lace ruffles, jabot and sword made up a costume, correct in every particular, of one of Louis XVI.’s courtiers.
MRS HERBERT MOLESWORTH (DEVONPORT, DEVON).
Court dress of Louis XVI. — Yellow satin gown in paniers, trimmed with light blue velvet and pink roses. Diamond ornaments.
CAPTAIN HERBERT MOLESWORTH (FIELD ARTILLERY, DEVONPORT, DEVON).
Mousquetaire, Louis XV. — Claret velvet costume, slashed with pink satin.
MISS MURRAY (DIDDINGTON HALL).
Short eau-de-nil satin skirt, trimmed band of passementarie, bodice and paniers of pink and white broché, looped up with pink satin bows; trimmed ruching of mousselaine-de-soie over pink satin; white wig; pink roses; ornaments, pearls and diamonds.
[6, Col. 5b–c]
LADY ANN MURRAY.
Madam de Pompadour (after La Tour). — Dress was of white and gold, brocaded with large sprays of coloured flowers trimmed with ruching of vieux rose satin and lace; white wig; lace cap, with lappets and bow; ornaments, pearls and emeralds.
MISS MILLER-MUNDAY [sic].
Pink dress with fichu.
MRS MILLER-MUNDAY [sic] (Shipley Hall, Derby).
Court dress — Petticoat of yellow satin, draped with white silk muslin edged with little pink roses; over-bodice low and double-breasted, of blue velvet with miniature and paste buttons, and revers faced with pale-hued brocade and finished with lace; headdress of Marie Theresè, Queen the Sicilies, a silk handkerchief tied in a knot at one side, very like the portrait of Madame le Brun in the Louvre Gallery done by herself; also plumes and jewels.
MRS J. MENZIES.
Duchess d’Angoulêne — Dress of pink satin in a loose full skirt, with a frill round the hem, a white muslin bodice, and a blue sash. Her bonnet, one of the period, was of blue velvet, with purple and blue ostrich plumes.
MRS BERESFORD MELVILLE.
Dress of green satin, lined with rose silk, and trimmed with roses and Venetian point lace.
LORD RICHARD NEVILLE.
Duc de Lanzun — Military coat of violet cloth, faced with white and braided with silver, violet silk stockings and knee-breeches, a white satin gold-embroidered waistcoat, silver epaulets, a sword in sword-belt, and all details to correspond.
MR H. DU C. NORRIS.
Marquis of France, temps Louis XVI. — Coat and breeches rose silk, large diamond buttons to waistcoat, and superb diamond buckles on shoes. Sword hilt jewelled in steel.
MR J. NORRIS.
Marquis of France — Green brocade velvet coat and breeches, white satin waistcoat, diamond buckles to shoes.
MRS OSBORNE.
Madame de Pompadour. — White silk dress, flowered with dandelions, and made with a Watteau back faced with pink, the petticoat of Rose du Barri silk with |ace flounces and jewelled trimmings, bodice also trimmed with lace and jewels, and long puffed tulle sleeves, drawn with narrow black ribbons; feathers in hair; gold and jewelled girdle.
MISS OSBORNE.
Madame de Pompadour — In garden dress, pink petticoat with bands of black velvet at the edge, and overdress of white, brocaded with small rosebuds, large black velvet bow on one side under large pink roses, bodice en suite with lace and roses, and black bow on the right shoulder, and large white chip hat, wreathed in roses, and with black velvet and roses under the brim.
SIR ALGERNON OSBORN, CHICKSANDS PRIORY.
Civilian costume — Black velvet, with steel buttons, lace cravat, white wig and sword.
PRINCESS HENRY OF PLESS.
Adrienne Lecouvreur — A handsome gown of ivory satin, the underskirt full, and embroidered, nearly half a yard deep, all round with gold, turquoise, amethyst, topaz, and briiliant jewelling. On the hip, the upper skirt was caught back with turquoise blue satin similarly embroidered. There were scalloped embroidered basques. Hair high and poudré; ornaments, diamond and turquoise.
[6, Col. 5c–6a]
PRINCE HENRY OF PLESS.
Vicomte de Bragebone — Green uniform of an Officer of the Guard of Louis XVI., faced with scarlet and relieved with white, the whole elaborately braided with gold. [Col 5c–6a]
COUNT PALFFY (AUSTRAILIAN EMBASSY [sic, s/b Austro-Hungarian Embassy]).
Court dress—Black velvet, point lace ruffles.
MISS PERRY (BITHAM HOUSE).
Louis XV. period. — Blue brocade, white satin petticoat, with beautiful deep old BrusseIs lace flounce.
LADY PEEL.
Lady of 1787 — This costume, which was designed by Madame Eloffe, dressmaker to Marie Antoinette, was composed of a white satin skirt, waistcoat and sleeves of blue satin; the back of the bodice, puffs on the sleeves, and loose train being of striped canary yellow and mauve brocade; a fichu of white satin lace, and frills of lace on the sleeves. A white wig with long falling curls, and a very high turban of lace on a blue bandeau, with feathers and flowers on the left side; ornaments, diamonds and emeralds.
MISS CONSTANCE PEEL.
Bergère of about 1771 — Petticoat of pink satin, with festoons of lace, hooped up with pink and yellow roses; bodice and puffed top skirt of white brocade and pink roses, and large puffed sleeves; Tuscany straw Gainsborough hat, with high pink and white feathers; hair poudre.
MR OSWALD PETRE (WHITLEY ABBEY, COVENTRY).
Court dress (present day), with wig.
THE HON. MRS FRANK PARKER.
Costume from a picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds — Grey brocade, white muslin fichu and cap; powdered hair.
MISS PRACH.
Louis XV., Dame de Cours — White satin bodoce [sic] and tunic, jewelled over blue petticoat, trimmed with lace and roses, coffieur of the period.
MRS ARTHUR PAGET.
Duchess d’Orleans — A white satin dress bordered with sable and richly embroidered with steel. She wore diamond ornaments across the top of her bodice, down the front of the dress, and round her neck, while in her white hair were three black ostrich plumes. Her dress sleeves were bound with roses.
EARL OF ROSSLYN.
Duc de Nemours — Uniform of a Colonel of Dragoons, period Louis XVI.; French grey and cherry colour, elaborately braided with gold.
LORD ROYSTON.
Souis Brigadier of Mousquetaires, Louis XVI. — White coat with gold-laced cuffs and collar, a tabard of sapphire blue edged with gold and white embroidery, a diamond Maltese cross suspended on the breast, white knee-breeches and silk stockings, Court shoes, white wig, and three-cornered hat.
[6, Col. 6a–b]
THE DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND.
Marie Leczinski, the wife of Louis XV. — White satin dress wrought handsomely with silver, and a regal robe, or mantle, of ruby velvet embroidered with gold. The front of the long pointed bodice was fairly ablaze with jewels — rubies, emeralds, and diamonds — of the Sutherland family collection. Along rivière of very large brilliants was used to loop up the Court mantle at the shoulders, a pointed diadem was worn on the forehead, and a large pearl ornament with pendant pear-shaped pearls at one side. The coiffure was low, in Louis XV. style.
LADY JANE SEYMOUR.
Lady, time of Louis XVI. — Biue quilted satia petticoat, white satin over-skirt and bodice trimmed with broad Valenciennes lace and pale-pink roses; hair powdered, with chaplet of roses and pearl ornaments.
LADY FEODORA STURT.
Madame la Marquise de la Pompadour — White satin costume, with the over-dress full and plain, and opening on a similar under-dress. The sleeves were of satin to the elbow, and finished with ruffles of point d’Alençon lace, while lace was arranged round the top of the bodice. The hair was worn high and poudré, with a black cockade, the badge of the Queen’s Household, at one side. She wore a black satin cap sewn with diamonds and having a diamond aigrette.
BARONESS SCHIMMELPENNINCK VON DER OYE
Pompadour costume—Overdress of dark green satin en train, Watteau back, over petticoat of white satin, brocaded with flowers; pearl and diamond ornaments.
MR MAURICE OSWALD SMITH (HAMMINWOOD, EAST GRINSTEAD).
Gentleman of the period of Louis XVI., copied from an old family picture.
MRS GUY SCOTT (HOCKLEY, MARTON).
Lady of the time of Louis XV. — Pink satin skirt, with Brussels lace and roses, white brocade body and overskirt, white wig, with pink roses and feather.
MRS SMITH (THE LAWN, WARWICK).
Lady of the Court of Louis XV. — A handsome gown of Louis XV. period, made of yellow brocade, lined and turned back with pale mauve satin and gold embroidery, over a petticoat of moss-green satin, with flounces of Brussels lace, and trails of westeria; bodice of yellow brocade, with fischu [sic] of white chiffon, fastened with green velvet bow and diamonds.
MISS MAY SANDERS (SNITTERFIELD).
Court dress of the period of Louis XVI. — White silk gown trimmed with gold, pink satin petticoat with revers of old point lace; hair poudré; muslin fichu and pink roses.
MR S. SANDERS (SNITTERFIELD).
Mousquetaire Corps du Garde de Louis XVI. — White frock coat with silver lace facings, blue waistcoat and breeches, white silk stockings, white wig, three-cornered hat, and sword.
MISS C. STARKEY (NOTTS).
Dress of white brocade, lined with pink silk; pink silk petticoat, trimmed with old lace and wreaths of roses; hair poudré, with pink roses; pearl ornaments.
MRS BEAUCHAMP SCOTT.
Period Louis XVI. — White and mauve satin brocade, trimmed with lace and fur, white wig.
MRS ARTHUR SOMERSET.
Shepherdess à la Watteau — Pompadour style, the dress and hat being trimmed with pink roses, and her crook tied with similar flowers.
MR OSWALD SMITH.
Gentleman of the Court, Louis XVI. — Dark-striped yellow coat, with needlework design in flowers in shaded silk, embroidered cream silk waistcoat, and pale-green satin breeches.
CAPTAIN SOMERSET.
Mousquetaire — Gold cloth with broad gold-bued silk sash.
[6, Col. 6b–c]
HON. B. W. H. STONOR.
Mousquetaire, Louis XVI. — Knickerbockers of a dark blue, with a doublet to match, having a cross emblazoned on the breast, and deep point lace collar, white satin coat skirts almost like a simulation of armour below his doublet, and a long military cloak of French grey cloth lined with scarlet, three-cornered hat, white wig, sword, silk stockings, and Court shoes.
MRS THURSBY-PELHAM.
White satin, with white roses and lace.
MISS VIOLET LOFTUS TOTTENHAM.
Pink and white brocade over white satin, and pink roses in her powdered hair.
MR TOWER.
Officier Garde Suisse — Scarlet coat lined with white, blue facings, and three-cornered hat.
MRS TOWER.
Duchesse de Polignac — White satin, with old lace and rose coloured plumes.
MRS TREE.
Court Dame, Louis XV — Skirt of pink satin, with a tunic of most lovely silver tinsel brocade, having alternate stripes encllosing bunches of roses and baskets of flowers. Were the usual Watteau back and hip panniers, and the petticoat was arranged with a twist of chiffon above a frill of most beautiful cream lace, over these being a garland of pink roses, caught up on either side with a cluster of pink and cream feathers repeating to the top; the sleeves were made of brocade to the elbow, with hanging cream lace over pink chiffon and feathers on the shoulders, and the dress was completed by pink slippers with pink velvet bows, a Louis XV. fan of great beauty, and a staff of pink and green with green ribbons, roses, and feathers to match the dress.
LORD GREY DE WILTON.
Gentleman, temps Louis XV. — Coat of dark petunia velvet embroidered with gold, a white satin waistcoat elaborately gold laced, white silk stockings, jabot ruffles, wig, sword, hat, and shoes en suite.
THE HON DUDLEY WARD.
Mousquetaire — Uniform of dark blue cloth, with scarlet facings and elaborately braided with gold.
LADY WALLER.
Comtesse d’Artois — White satin quilted petticoat with a pearl at each corner of the pattern; gown of grey brocade lined with white satin; white lisse stomacher crossed by grey velvet bows fastened with diamonds.
MISS WALLER.
Fille de la Comtesse d’Artois — Gown of pale blue satin flecked with pink roses tied with ribbon, paniers and wreaths of roses.
MISS CORNWALLIS WEST.
Mademoiselle de la Court — Costume after a picture by Roslin depicting a girl about to decorate the statue of Love. She wore an underdress of pale pink satin with gown of white satin with demi-train, lined with pink. The body was decked with tulle, and long tulle streamers were pendant from the sleeves; head-dress was roses and violets, with pink and white ribbons.
MR WILLIAMS.
Black velvet Court dress, with Louis XV. wig.
MRS FRANCIS WILLIAMS (WATCHBURY, WARWICK).
Lady of the Court, Louis XV. — White satin bodice and train, with white satin petticoat trimmed with lace and pink roses.
[6, Col. 6c – 7, Col. 1a]
MRS WEST (ALSCOT PARK).
Lady of the Court of Louis XV. — A handsome gown of Louis XV. period, made of white broché silk, with bouquets of pink roses, over petticoat of rich pink satin with deep flounce of Brussels lace, caught up with trails of pink roses; bodice of same broché, with white chiffon fichu fastened in front with pink velvet bow and diamonds. [6, Col. 6c – 7, Col. 1a]
MRS CARTLAND.
Lady of the court, Louis XV. — Green brocade bodice and skirt; white satin petticoat trimmed with old lace and roses; white Leghorn hat with roses.
MISS FLEETWOOD WILSON.
Lady of the period — Black peau de soie silk, the Watteau and over-skirt lined with white, pointed panniers, skirt caught up with roses, while black roses wee worn on the powdered hair. A splendid stomacher of diamonds and emeralds was worn.
LIEUTENANT-COLONEL MILDMAY WILSON, C.B. (SCOTS GUARDS).
Guardsman, 1790 — Red tunic, gold braid, [9R?] on buttons, white gaiters coming above the knee, black garters, wig, and three-cornered hat.
MRS WHEATLEY (BERKSWELL HALL).
Lady of Louis XV. Court — Bodice and train of pale green and pearl coloured striped brocade, with bunches of pink roses; petticoat and corsage of pale green satin, embroidered in pearls, and high collar of lace; diamond ornaments, a wig with pink roses and diamond stars.
MRS WILLIE LOW (WELLESBOURNE HOUSE).
Duchess of Gainsborough — Dress copied exactly from the portrait of the Hon. Mrs Graham, in brocade, with pink satin petticoat, a big black hat trimmed with white plumes, with diamonds.
MR W. M. LOW.
David Garrick — Costume worn by the actor, Mr Richard Wyndham, when impersonating that character, of rich purple vevet coat, purple satin waistcoat and knee-breeches, steel buttons, purple silk stockings, diamond buckles, black three-cornered hat, and steel sword.[5]
Anthology
[edit | edit source]Quote Intro
[edit | edit source]The day of the ball, the Coventry Evening Telegraph published the following:
GRAND BAL POUDRE AT WARWICK CASTLE.
Writing this morning our Warwick representative says: Warwick Castle will tonight be the scene of a memorable spectacle, the Earl and Countess of Warwick having invited about four hundred guests to a bal poudre, in which the costumes were to be of the style of the Louis XIV. and XV. period. The event has been looked forward to with considerable interest by the élite of the fashionable world, on account of the prominent position occupied by the Countess in society. Great preparations were made the Castle, the greater portion of which has been most lavishly decorated in the light and airy French style of the period. The dancing will take place in the Cedar drawing-room, the adjoining rooms having been set apart as retiring rooms. Supper will be served in the Great Hall, where the whole of the guests will be able to sit down together. The decorations have been carried out under the personal supervision of the hostess, who has received the valuable assistance and advice of Mr. Caryll Craven. The dance music will be supplied by Worm's famous "White Viennese" Band, while Johnson's (Manchester) Band will discourse in the supper room. The hostess will be dressed as "Mary Antoinette," Queen of Louis XVI. Her costume will be of rose-coloured brocade with a gold pattern, and a sky-blue velvet train embroidered with gold fleur-de lys. Lady Warwick's relative, the Duchess of Sutherland, will appear as the wife of Louis XV. in a costume of white and silver with crimson velvet train and silver fleur-de-lys. Lord Warwick will be in the dress of a military officer of the period, while Prince Francis of Teck has signified his intention of appearing in the uniform of "the Royals" (of the period). Owing to the demise of Lord Randolph Churchill, the Duke of Marlborough will not be present.
The house party at the Castle included the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador, the Portuguese Minister, Prince Francis of Teck, Prince and Princess Henry of Pless and Miss Cornwallis West, Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Angela St. Clair Erskine, Duke of Manchester, Earl and Countess of Rosslyn, Earl of Lonsdale, Earl of Burford, Earl of Chesterfield, Countess Cairns, Lord Clifden, Lord Kenyon, Lady Gerard, Lord Grey de Wilton, Lord Royston, Lord Lovat, Lady Norreys, Lady Eva Greville, Lord Richard Neville, Hon H. and Lady Fedora Sturt, Hon. H. Stonor, Captain the Hon. Hedworth Lambton, Mr. F. Menzies and Miss Muriel Wilson, Miss Naylor, Mr. Arthur Paget, Mr. Cyril Foley, Mr. C. de Murietta, and Mr. Layoock.
The following accepted invitations to the ball, and most of them brought parties with them, the guests numbering in all about four hundred:— The Earl and Countess of Aylesford, Mr. and Mrs. Aubrey Cartwright, Mr. and Mrs. J. Stratford Dugdale, Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlayne, Sir C. and Lady Mordaunt, Mr. and Mrs. Smythe, Lord and Lady Hertford, Lady and Miss Waller, Mr. J. and Mr. J. P. Arkwright, Mr. and Mrs. M. Lucas, Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Dugdale (18), Mr., Lady Anne, and Miss Murray, Captain and Mrs. Brinkley, Mr. and Mrs. Guy Scott, Mr., Mrs., and Miss Irwin, Mr. and Miss Perry, Major and Mrs. Fosbery, Mr. Lindsay, Mr. R. Paget, Sir A. and Lady Hodgson, Mrs. Beauchamp Scott, Major and Mrs. Norris, Mr. and Mrs. Tree, Mr., Mrs. and Miss Granville, Mr. and Mrs. Joliffe, Captain and Mrs. Osborne, Mr. and Mrs. E. Little, Mr., Mrs., and Miss Lakin, Officers 6th Reg. District, Mr. Batchelor, Hon. Mrs. and Miss Chandos Leigh, Colonel and Mrs. Paulet, Mr. F. Hunter Blair, Mr. J. Alston, Mr. and Mrs. Hutton, Captain and Mrs. Cowan, Mr. and Mrs. Williams, Mr. and the Misses Allfrey, Mr. and Mrs. Wilson Fitzgerald, Mr. and Mrs. W. Allfrey, Mrs. and Miss Drummond, Mr. and Mrs. Shaw, Mr. R. and Mr. J. Lant, Mr. and Mrs. Sanders and party, Captain Lafone, Sir F. and Lady Peel, Captain and Mrs. Keighly-Peach, Miss Nicol and party, Mr. and Mrs. Fred Shaw, Mr. and Mrs. Cove Jones, Mr. and Lady G. Petre, Mr. R. Barnes, Mr. and Mrs. Wheatley, Mr., Mrs., and Miss Ramsden, Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Low, Mrs. Basil Montgomery, Mr. and Mrs. Thursby-Pelham, Mr. and Mrs. H. Chamberlain, Mr. Francis, Mr. and Mrs. Graham, Mr. and Mrs. West, Mr. and Mrs. Sam Smith, Officers 17th Lancers.[3]
The report from the Morning Post the next day:
The Countess of Warwick's Bal Poudré at Warwick Castle last night was attended by a company of nearly 400 guests, and was a brilliant success. The magnificent suite of apartments was superbly decorated with choice flowers, while the many treasures of antiquity and historic interest which the Castle contains were displayed in the various rooms. The choice of costume was restricted to the period covering the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI., with powdered hair or white wigs, but gentlemen were given the option of appearing in English Court dress with Louis XV. wigs. The Countess of Warwick, who represented Marie Antoinette, wore a dress of rose-coloured material brocaded with gold, with a train of sky-blue velvet, embroidered with fleur-de-lis. The Earl of Warwick was attired in a Maison du Roi costume of rich velvet, with gold and diamond buttons. Prince Francis of Teck wore the uniform of the period of his own regiment, the Royals. The Duchess of Sutherland, as the wife of Louis XV., was in a costume of white and silver, with a crimson velvet train embroidered with silver fleur-de-lis. Prince Henry of Pless wore a blue military dress of the period with red facings, while the Earl of Rosslyn donned the uniform of a Colonel of the reign of Louis XVI. The Hon. H. Sturt represented the Church of the period as an Abbé, and Mr. W. Low the stage as David Garrick. Amongst the other guests were the Austro-Hungarian Ambassador, the Portuguese Minister, Princess Henry of Pless, Lady Angela St. Clair Erskine, the Duke of Manchester, the Earl and Countess of Rosslyn, the Earl of Lonsdale, the Earl of Burford, the Earl of Chesterfield, Countess Cairns, Lord Clifden, Lord Kenyon, Lady Gerard, Lord Grey de Wilton, Lord Royston, Lord Lovat, Lady Norreys, Lady Eva Greville, Lord Richard Nevill, Lady Feodorowna Sturt, the Hon. S. Greville, the Hon. H. Stonor, Captain the Hon. Hedworth Lambton, Mrs. Menzies, Miss Muriel Wilson [sic no comma] Miss Naylor, Mr. Arthur Paget, Mr. Cyril Foley, Mr. C. de Murrieta, Mr. Caryl Craven, Mr. Kennard, and Mr. Laycock. The Countess of Aylesford brought a large party from Packington Hall. Herr Würm's White Viennese Band occupied the orchestra. Dancing commenced at nine o'clock, and at midnight the entire company sat down to supper in the large banqueting hall. The assembly was undoubtedly one of the most brilliant which has ever been gathered together within the walls of the historic Castle.[4]
Notes and Questions
[edit | edit source]References
[edit | edit source]- ↑ "The Warwick Bal Poudre." The Queen, The Lady's Newspaper 09 February 1895 Saturday: 38 [of 80], Col. 2c [of 3] – 39, Col. 3c. British Newspaper Archive https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0002627/18950209/233/0038.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 "The Grand Bal Poudre at Warwick Castle." Leamington Spa Courier 09 February 1895, Saturday: 6 [of 8], Cols. 1a–6c [of 6] – 7, Col. 1a. British Newspaper Archive https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000319/18950209/042/0006.
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 "Grand Bal Poudre at Warwick Castle." Coventry Evening Telegraph 01 February 1895, Friday: 3 [of 4], Col. 4a–b [of 7]. British Newspaper Archive https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000337/18950201/021/0003.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 "Arrangements for This Day." Morning Post 02 February 1895, Saturday: 5 [of 10], Col. 7c [of 7]. British Newspaper Archive https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000174/18950202/052/0005.
- ↑ "The Grand Bal Poudre at Warwick Castle." Leamington Spa Courier 09 February 1895, Saturday: 6 [of 8], Cols. 1a–6c [of 6] – 7, Col. 1a. British Newspaper Archive https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000319/18950209/042/0006.