Illustrated Companion to the Latin Dictionary/Peplum

This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Rich, Anthony (1849). The illustrated companion to the Latin dictionary, and Greek lexicon. p. vi. OCLC 894670115. https://archive.org/details/illustratedcompa00rich. 

PEP'LUM and PE'PLUS (πέπλον and πέπλος). A Greek word translated into Latin, designating a particular article of the female attire, which the Romans expressed by the corresponding term PALLA; the Greek word being derived, according to Riemer, from πέλλα, and akin to ἔπιπλα and ἐπίπλοον; from which the Latin pellis, palla, and pallium are likewise obtained. The ordinary interpretation given to the word, "a shawl," rests upon no substantial authority, if it be understood in our sense of the word; at the same time that it affords but a loose and incorrect notion of the dress itself, and the method of adjusting it; which is fully and circumstantially detailed under its genuine Latin name Palla; to which and the illustrations accompanying it, the reader is referred.

As the above explanation is at variance with the notions ordinarily received, it appears incumbent to state in a concise manner some of the principal reasons for its adoption; and as the article in question belonged properly to the Greek attire, its real character must be sought in the writings and usages of that country. 1. Pollux (vii. 49, 50.) describes the peplum as a dress exclusively for females, which served the double purpose of a tunica and pallium (like the Latin tunicopallium — ἐπιβλημα καὶ χιτὼν, and ἔσθημα δ᾿ ἐστὶ διπλοῦν τὴν χρείαν, ὡς ἐνδοῦναι τε καὶ ἐπιβάλλεσθαι). 2. The Scholiast on Homer (Il. v. 734.) defines it to be a tunic, which was not put on over the head, like the common one (INDUTUS), but was adjusted and fastened on the person by means of brooches (γυναικεῖον ἔνδυμα, τοῦτ᾿ ἐστὶ χιτῶνα, ὃν οὐκ ἐνεδύοντο ἀλλ᾿ ἐνεπερονῶντο). 3. Eustathius (ad Od. σ. p. 1847.) describes the peplum as a large wrapper which entirely covered the left shoulder, and had one of its surfaces passed behind the person, and the other across the front, until they met on the right side, where they were joined together in such a manner as to leave the arm and shoulder exposed (μέγαν περιβόλαιον, σκέπον τὸν ἀρίστερον ὦμον, καὶ ἔμπροσθεν καì ὄπισθεν συνάγον τὰς δῦο πτέρυγας εἰς τὴν δεξιὰν πλευρὰν, γυμνὴν ἐῶν τὴν δεξιὰν χεῖρα καὶ τὸν ὦμον). The annexed figure (Peplum/1.1), from a statue found at Herculaneum, and composing one of the same set as the first two inserted in the article PALLA, p. 465., elucidates the words of Eustathius in a striking manner, showing the character of the drapery and method of putting it on; with the exception, that his account seems to place the second brooch under the arm, instead of upon the shoulder, so as to form an exomis, of which an example is afforded in Hope's Costumes, vol. ii. p. 180., whence we may infer that both these fashions were practised; but that in no wise alters the essential character of the dress. 4. Panthea is described by Xenophon (Cyr. v. 1. 6.) as rending her peplum during an access of grief — περικατερῥήξατο τὸν ἄνωθεν πέπλον; which does not mean simply, that she "tore and rent her outer garment," as the translators render it; but that she tore the upper part (τὸ ἄνωθεν) of her peplum; viz. that which is turned over at the top, and covers the breast and back, rending it round (περὶ) and down (κατά) — an action and expression perfectly intelligible when applied to a garment of the nature exhibited in the illustration above, but not so reconcileable with a shawl over the head. During this act her face, neck, and hands were exposed to the gaze of the bystanders (Xen. l. c.); from which the commentators infer that the peplum covered the head and hands as a shawl; but that is quite a mistaken notion; for the Greek and Roman women, as well as Asiatics, wore a seperate shawl or veil (amictus) over the peplum (see the illustration s. PALLA, 3. p. 467.); and it is this which got displaced, as it naturally would, from the head and face, by the violent action of tearing the body-dress (peplum) in the manner described. 5. The peplum is mentioned both by Greek and Latin authors as a long dress reaching to the feet, and trailing on the ground (Τρωάδας ἑλκεσιπέπλους, Hom. Il. vi. 443. peplum fluens, Claud. Nupt. Honor. 122. Manil. v. 387.), which character it is difficult to connect with the appearance of a shawl. 6. The same term is applied by the Greeks to the long close-fitting robe with sleeves to the wrist, and skirts to the feet, which was worn by the Persians (Aesch. Pers. 474. 1060.), as the Romans gave the name of palla to a robe of the same description, which was worn by musicians on the stage. See the illustrations to SEPTUCHUS and PALLA CITHAROEDICA. 7. The peplum was fastened by a brooch on the shoulder, which, when unclasped, left the shoulder and side naked (Soph. Trachin. 926 — 928. Sidon. Apoll. Carm. iii. 206.); but a shawl, which is only worn over some other dress, would not denude the person even when removed altogether from the body. 8. A garment of the nature described under the term PALLA answers all these conditions, and satisfactorily explains why it is sometimes mentioned as a tunic, and sometimes as an amictus (Mart. Capell. 6. amicta peplo); why it occurs in the sense of a carpet, curtain, veil for covering anything; how the notion of its being only a shawl has obtained; and how, when carried in the Athenaic procession, it was said to be like the sail of a ship; because, when loosed from its clasps, and unfolded, it was in reality nothing more than a large rectangular piece of drapery, which acquired the characteristic appearance of a legitimate garment from the manner in which it was folded and adjusted on the person.

2. The peplum of Athena was a large and splendidly embroidered piece of drapery, that was carried in public procession at the Panathenaic festival, opened out to its full dimensions, and borne between two poles, like the sail of a ship, in the same manner as emblazoned flags and banners are now carried by two men in the solemn processions of the Roman Catholic Church (Plato, Euthyphr. 6. C. Virg. Cir. 21.); but when placed on the statue of the goddess, it was folded and adjusted in the same manner as the PALLA. This will be readily admitted from the annexed figure (Peplum/2.1) of Minerva on a fictile vase; although the brooches on the shoulders are concealed by the amictus outside, and the peplum is fastened by a girdle, rendered necessary by the great depth of the upper part turned down (τὸν ἄνωθεν πέπλον), thus indicating the amplitude and consequent splendour of the drapery out of which the dress was formed. Many other statues exhibit Minerva in a similar costume; and amongst these, one of the Museo Chiaramonti (tav. 14.), which has no outer drapery, shows the brooches on both shoulders, and the whole arrangement of the peplum exactly similar to the first two figures introduced under the article PALLA, the only difference being that the fall over is as deep as in the annexed figure, and a narrow aegis crosses obliquely from the right shoulder, in the form of a balteus, to keep the dress adjusted, instead of a girdle round the waist.

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  Peplum/1.1
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  Peplum/2.1